Del Campo Peak (7/29/17)

Back to our North Cascades climbing trip:

We drove north Friday morning (7/28) and hiked in to Foggy Lake. After sleeping in a bit Saturday, we climbed Gothic Peak above the lake. We returned to camp and hung out for a while, soaking in the beauty and enjoying the show unfolding around us.

Gothic Basin is apparently a very popular day hike. While we drove for hours and hours to get there, it's fairly close to Seattle - more like us Portlanders driving to the Gorge. The day brought dozens of visitors - many who decided to jump in the frozen lake! This seemed like a really bad idea to us, but no one drowned, so I guess it was OK.

From camp, we watched many parties approach Gothic Peak and turn around at the base of the summit block. It looked like we were the only ones who actually summitted that day!

Earlier, from Gothic Peak, we saw a climbing party crossing the snowfield below the Del Campo summit block. And we could see the hidden-from-below gully route. And then from camp, we saw a few more climbers on Del Campo. We used the new information to verify what we thought was the route.

Del Campo from Gothic Peak summit

The route takes you up the ridge on the right, up the top snowfield
and then up the shadowy gully to the right of the summit.
From the notch, scramble up the back side of the summit block.

We still had lots of daylight, and Gothic was quicker than we'd anticipated, so we decided to pack up again and head up Del Campo. Might as well get 'er done :)

The approach is short but very steep, gaining 1,400 feet in less than a mile. The top section is vertical scrambling. I don't have photos of the approach because I was busy with ice ax and then all hands and feet!

A group of four was slowly coming down the gully when we arrived. We hopped off the snow and looked for the obvious route up the rock. Unlike Gothic, there were no kairns, and it was difficult to know the best way up. The rock was fairly solid and blocky, providing good hand and foot holds as we made our way.

The route description Brad had said that there was a third-class ascent, and that if you found yourself in fourth-class rock, you were off course. 

(Third-class: "steep scrambling with exposure, ropes are needed for inexperienced people. An unroped fall on 3rd-class terrain would likely be fatal." Fourth-class: "steeper scrambling on small holds, ropes are needed for most people, but an experienced climber would normally climb an entire rope length without intermediate protection, then set an anchor and belay other climbers up. Inexperienced people may not be skilled enough to ascend even when belayed from above.") Source: ASCA 

BUT... we saw nothing that looked like third-class. I was growing less comfortable with the exposure, partly because I was tired and partly because it was getting to my head. Climbing is very physical and very mental. I was working hard to keep my mental strength as the summit neared.

Looking back now at other information, I see a lot of descriptions calling this class 3-4. That's definitely how we would classify it!

Again - no pictures because my hands were very busy.

We finally reached the summit and found a Seattle-area couple on top, celebrating a birthday. I sat clinging to the rocks, and as soon as they left, I lost it. I freaked out, doubting my ability to descend the nearly vertical, fourth-class rock below.

Brad signed us in the summit register, then we took a few photos.

The view was much the same as from Gothic across the lake.

Gothic is the peak in the center of the photo below (Rainier barely visible on the left horizon):

Foggy Lake, 1,400 feet below. We could see our tent :)

Despite the awesome weather, we decided that staying on top would only add to my descent anxiety. Brad down climbed ahead of me and spotted me on the really tricky moves. He was incredibly supportive and did exactly what I needed! (He also felt bad for getting me in a bit over my head)

I was very glad for my rock-climbing experience! I couldn't imagine being a newbie and deciding to climb something like this. There were some hard moves that I handled well, despite my brain leaving me for a while.

I'm embarrassed that I freaked out. BUT, I'm also really glad that I was able to overcome my fear and prove to myself that I can handle this stuff - the physical and the mental part. Each climbing experience is a learning and growing experience.

The birthday couple was slower on the descent, and we arrived together at the snow. The groups before us glissaded, so we decided to give it a try. The snow was steep but sloppy by that time of day. And we were prepared with ice axes. We did put our zip-legs back on to keep the snow out of our crotches (been there - very cold!)

It was short but fun - always easier and more fun to slide down the snow :)

The rest of the descent was a relative breeze. It's amazing how my body immediately relaxes after the stress.

Gear: We both used trekking poles, ice axes and climbing helmets. We again carried crampons but did not need them in the soft snow.

It was very fun to be among a small handful of people who summitted Del Campo that day!

Tired from a long day with two summits, we ate dinner and went to sleep. Then about 2 am, we got up to try and photograph the amazing stars. We didn't get any good pictures, but it was sure beautiful! (and that flash was REALLY bright!)

Because we'd already tagged both peaks, we decided to hike out Sunday and head home. The roughness of the approach trail - and it was now in the sun - made for a long, hot hike back to the car. But still full of beauty!

It was crazy how many people (mostly day hikers) were going up as we were hiking out. We were glad to be leaving - too crowded for us!

Two very tired, happy climbers :)

:)

Gothic Peak (7/29/17)

Brad's been trying for years to get me to backpack and climb at Foggy Lake, east of Everett, Wash. Plans finally came together this summer for a long weekend trip.

We left Tigard Friday morning and drove north to Everett on I-5 and then turned right through Lake Stevens, Granite Falls, Verlot and Silverton. We parked at the Barlow Pass trailhead at 2,361 feet in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.  

After tanking up on Subway, we donned our packs and started up the Weeden Creek Trail to Gothic Basin.

The trail was very steep in places, gaining about 3,000 feet in about 5 miles. The first mile is actually downhill on an old road before the above split ^^^. Add in an overnight pack and the heat of a summer afternoon and it was a tough approach.

Shade and amazing views helped keep us going:

The trail was not just steep but also rugged, making for a slow trip. Still, biting flies motivated us to keep moving!

We finally reached Gothic Basin and then scrambled up and to the right to reach Foggy Lake.

We chose a beautiful "campsite" on the rocky edge of the lake.

A great reward for a long day:

We packed for a four-day trip, planning to climb Gothic Peak Saturday, Del Campo Peak Sunday and then hike out Monday.

We woke Saturday morning to this view of Gothic Peak (the highest hump on the ridge) over the still-frozen Foggy Lake:

Del Campo was just to the right of the saddle:

Our tent among the rocks:

The trip reports guiding our climbing were from early season when the slopes were still snow-covered. When there's snow, you just pick a line and head straight up. It's not so easy after it melts out. We decided to head up the snow patch on the left (pictured, below) and then make our way up the ridge to the right. (Gothic is just to the right of this picture)

But before we climb: breakfast! We brought a bunch of homemade food and ate really well!

With the sun finally hitting our camp, it was time to climb.

On the ascent, we decided to pass a snowfield by walking in the large moat (the void where the snow melts away from the warm rocks). It was sketchier than it looked from above, and we decided to descend on the above rock slab instead. Good decision - it was very solid rock.

Inside the moat:

We'd been climbing with a couple guys from Seattle until the snowfields. They decided to head back, and we were alone for the of the ascent.

Soon, we were at the bottom of the summit block. It looked intimidating, but we spotted a couple kairns (rocks stacked to mark the trail) and knew we were on route. We scrambled the near-vertical section and were quickly on top.

Rainier to the south:

Foggy Lake 1,000 feet below at 5,223':

Gothic Peak summit: 6,213'

Del Campo across the lake:

We also weren't certain of the Del Campo route, but we were able to see from this angle the hidden gully to the right of the summit.

Playing with my new camera: (click to see it bigger!)

Vertical panoramic:

We were alone on the summit, and the weather was so mild that we hung out for a while soaking in the view.

This is the third-class summit block from the bottom. The American Safe Climbing Association defines third-class rock as: "steep scrambling with exposure, ropes are needed for inexperienced people. An unroped fall on 3rd-class terrain would likely be fatal."

It was not as bad as it looked, but there was definitely a lot of exposure, and I was happy to have some rock-climbing skills and confidence in my tool belt. We decided it was not a route for beginners.

After descending the summit block and skirting the snowfields, the rest of the trip to the lake was straightforward and relatively easy.

Gear: We both used trekking poles, ice axes and climbing helmets. We carried crampons but did not need them in the soft snow.

Up next: Del Campo :)

Consolation beach trip

Eryn and I had a week-long road trip planned for our summer break, but a few things forced us to cancel at the last minute. It ended up being good because we were home with family in my grandfather's final week. 

We kept our final camping reservation for Friday night at Cape Lookout, hoping life would calm down enough to allow at little fun.

We drove out Highway 26, stopping to see some mountains on the way:

We played tour guide, identifying the distant mountains for others stopped at the viewpoint. 

We stopped at Camp 18 for a late breakfast, opting to share the cinnamon roll - and eggs for protein. It was HUGE!

Had to stop at all the viewpoints! Tillmook Rock Lighthouse - lots of family history there:

Arcadia State Park:

Hug Point:

We finally reached Cape Lookout and set up camp. Brad rode his motorcycle and met us there.

After a little rest in the new giant tent, Brad and I hiked down to the south beach:

Bunny! 

Saturday, the three of us hiked to the end of the cape.

Then Eryn took the car back to camp while Brad and I hiked back to the campground:

 

It was checkout time, so we packed up quickly and headed to the day-use area for some lunch for Brad before he hit the road on his bike.

Eryn and I kept exploring, stopping for our own lunch at the Van Duzer rest area. We popped the back of the car and cooked chili dogs on the "Minnie Winnie". The setup, that Brad designed and built last summer, is SO AWESOME! This picture does not do it justice:

It was disappointing to miss our vacation, but this little getaway sure was nice :)